In a large bowl (or stand mixer bowl), combine the bread flour, yeast, caster sugar, salt, cinnamon, mixed spice, cardamom, cloves, orange zest, and lemon zest. Whisk together to distribute evenly.

Add the warm milk, beaten eggs, and vanilla bean paste to the dry ingredients. Mix until a shaggy dough forms.

Knead the dough for 8–10 minutes by hand on a lightly floured surface (or 6 minutes on medium speed with a dough hook) until smooth and elastic.

Add the softened butter a few cubes at a time, kneading between each addition until fully incorporated. The dough should be soft, slightly tacky, and pull away from the sides of the bowl. This will take another 5–8 minutes.

Add the dark chocolate chips, sultanas, and candied orange peel. Knead gently until evenly distributed throughout the dough.

Shape the dough into a ball and place in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with plastic wrap or a damp tea towel.

Leave to prove in a warm place for 1–1.5 hours, or until doubled in size. Alternatively, prove overnight in the fridge for a deeper flavour — bring to room temperature for 30 minutes before shaping.

Punch down the dough to knock out the air. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and divide into 12 equal portions (approximately 90–95g each).

Shape each portion into a smooth ball by folding the edges underneath and rolling on the bench with a cupped hand. Place into a lined 25x35cm baking tray, leaving about 1cm gap between each bun.

Cover loosely with oiled plastic wrap and leave to prove again for 45–60 minutes, until the buns have puffed up and are touching each other.

Preheat the oven to 374°F fan-forced (410°F conventional).

Mix the plain flour, caster sugar, and water together in a small bowl until a smooth, thick paste forms. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a small round nozzle (or a zip-lock bag with a small corner snipped off).

Pipe a continuous line along each row of buns horizontally, then vertically, to form crosses.

Bake in the preheated oven for 22–25 minutes, until the buns are deep golden brown on top and sound hollow when tapped on the base.

Remove from the oven and allow to cool in the tray for 5 minutes.

While the buns are still warm, heat the apricot jam, water, and vanilla bean paste in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring until smooth and fluid. Strain if needed to remove any fruit pieces.

Brush the warm glaze generously over the tops of the buns using a pastry brush. This gives them that gorgeous sticky, shiny finish.

Allow to cool for at least 10 minutes before serving. Best enjoyed warm, split and buttered.